For Spring-Summer 2023, MM6 Maison Margiela invites you into the sacred space of rehearsal, in the process behind the performance. Sitting on its main stage, you can see the Cariplo Foundation Milan Auditorium from the same vantage point as our dancers, as they prepare for a rehearsal of Igor Stravinsky’s seismic ballet – an avant-garde masterpiece still today – The rite of spring. In the stalls, the 60-piece ensemble of the Milan Symphony Orchestra, conducted by Wladimir Schall, performs the last tunings before the start of the general rehearsals.
The dresses are made with vigorous movement and ballet in mind. Off-the-shoulder jersey bodies in cream, blush and teal fit easily to the wearer’s body; ribbed knit boleros in white cotton frame the décolleté, while the gathered mohair cover-ups warm the joints. The sleeves of the scoop neck sweaters are attached in reverse, allowing you to easily throw your arms skyward in the fifth position.
The vests are enlarged and stacked like airy minidresses, and the MM6 Salomon Adv Skin 5 running vest, a product of this season’s ongoing collaboration with the French outdoor sports brand, first introduced for fall- winter 2022, they are always present: useful when water interruptions require. Elsewhere, the brand’s signature sole is used for thigh-high boots with points uppers, available in blush and black.
A jaunty playfulness informs how pieces are constructed and worn: shrunken tops with spaghetti straps become waist-tight tuxedo sashes of boxy satin coats and knitted tank top dresses are pulled and folded into slender high-waisted skirts . The five-zip jacket with steeply angled cap sleeves is reinvented as a ballerina leotard in shiny black calfskin.
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The mottled markings of the worn dancers inform the abrasions that constitute the key graphic motif of this season. Mottled over long bleached denim skirts, mohair knit garments and stretch jersey tops, they have a double function: they simultaneously serve as tattered embellishments and provide ventilation in the sweltering summer heat. The ivory duchess satin used for the lapel coats and wide leg jeans is washed out, fading the sheen, and the dyeing treatments of the light blue and pink jersey petticoats are marbled and streaked, a tribute to the pieces of one of the Maisonthe most emblematic collections of
The silhouettes are anchored by a range of footwear that – predictably – takes dancers as a starting point. Its square-toe silhouette translates into powder pink satin and black calfskin sabot; the ‘6’ heel boot in tan leather; open toe sock boots in aquamarine, fuchsia and dove gray jersey; and even a mini shoulder bag that mimics a folded décolleté. A full range of Japanese bags, including the classic origami-inspired shape, the oval-bottom mini tote, the accordion silhouette with a long handle and a new shoulder bag, returns to the season’s main palette and this season’s jewelry gets inspiration hand-knotted and studded pieces discovered in the archive.
As always with MM6 Maison Margiela, this is a collection that reaffirms the basic philosophy of the brand: rather than dictating how they should be worn, they are clothes to be lived as you please. Whether it’s running, dancing or relaxing, these garments aren’t ready to wear – they’re ready when they’re put on.
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